The world of ‘haute horology’ will once again convene in Switzerland for Baselworld 2019 from March 21st through March 26th for some of the most prominent watchmakers in the world to show off their latest-and-greatest updates to their collections for the upcoming year. There will be some notable absentees this year including the Swatch Group (Omega, Blancpain, Breguet, etc.) who announced that it will no longer be participating in Basel in late-July. In any case, the focus (as it usually is) will be on the most prominent watch brand in the world - Rolex. Last year’s unveils from Rolex and its ‘sister brand’ Tudor were some of the most widely coveted timepieces of the year that still cannot be found in any Authorized Dealer (“AD”) and therefore, continue to command significant premiums on the secondary market, which includes:
The “Pepsi” Stainless GMT Master II with jubilee bracelet (Ref: 126710BLRO), which is holding around $18,000 on the secondary market (about double the retail price of $9,250).
Source: Rolex.com
Not to be outdone by ‘big brother’, Tudor surprised the world by introducing two new models, which also remain highly coveted and in short-supply:
The Black Bay GMT (Ref: 79830RB), with a similar ‘Pepsi' bezel (albeit with a burgundy and navy bezel) and an upgraded in-house MT5652 movement (70 hour power reserve).
The Black Bay 58 (Ref: 79030N) - a big hit with the new-vintage crowd with its 39mm size, 11.9mm thickness, and its new customized in-house MT5402 movement (also a 70 hour power reserve).
Source: Hodinkee.com
So with that being said, there is no lack of curiosity or interest as to what the ‘House of Rolex’ will bring to Baselworld 2019. The irony in all of this is no matter what they unveil, nobody without a significant connection to an Authorized Dealer (“AD”) is going to get access to these watches at anywhere near retail price. In any case, I can still hope for these 5:
A Revitalization of the Tudor Submariner: Tudor is using its Instagram feed to tease what it will unveil at Basel, and from some of the pictures, it would be hard not to believe it will revitalize its legendary submariner line, which was a standard issue used by a number of country’s Navy divers, including the United States. The only questions with the rebirth of the Submariner is the overlap with Rolex (which appears to be no issue given the simultaneous “Pepsi” launches last year and the standing of the Heritage Black Bay series, which is effectively a diver’s watch.
A ‘Modern 6541 Rolex Milgauss’: Always a sucker for a rotating bezel, I would love to see Rolex resurrect a new Milgauss model in the spirit of Ref. 6541, black rotating bezel with the Milgauss name in red font and a black honeycomb dial. Rolex, like Tudor, has also been foreshadowing a change to the Milgauss with 11 straight posts centered on the watch. One thing that would be a shame to lose is the green domed sapphire - a manufacturing marvel that makes the current iteration really stand out from the crowd.
A Money Green Tudor Pelagos with a GMT Hand for ‘Good Measure’: The Pelagos is one of the most underrated watches in the entire Rolex / Tudor portfolio - a 42mm titanium diver with an in-house movement and one helluva auto-adjustable clasp, which honestly is on-par with, if not better than Rolex’s own Oyster Glide Lock bracelet. So what the heck, why not give us a “money green” Pelagos a la the very popular (and now very expensive) Rolex Submariner Hulk. And while they’re at it, would it hurt to throw in a GMT hand with a full 24-hour hour bezel to match?
Rolex Submariner with Oysterflex Bracelet: Ok, we know that the Submariner needs an updated movement - it’s using the 3135 COSC-certified movement - a very reliable movement, but lacks the 70-hour power reserve that seems to be standard fare for all new Rolex models. But here’s a thought, what about pairing the legendary dive watch with its amazing Oysterflex Bracelet? I know Rolex has limited the Oysterflex Bracelet to its precious metal watches (e.g., the platinum and gold Daytona’s among others), but it wouldn’t hurt to give the most recognizable Rolex of modern times a new look.
Black Bay 58 with New Colors: So the Black Bay 58 has turned out to be a wild success for Tudor. It’s slim profile (as compared to the normal Black Bay) and 39mm size is exactly what the market wanted. So, why not bring some colors to the model just like what Tudor did with the Heritage Black Bay - perhaps we’ll see a burgundy and / or navy bezel to align with the Heritage Black Bay line? Whether they do this or not, I’m sure the 58 will remain colorfully ‘out-of-stock’ at your local AD.
I am convinced we will not see the following: A stainless steel “Coke” GMT Master II; A new stainless steel Daytona; or, a new Stainless Steel Submariner with a new color bezel (a la “the Smurf”).